Lucknow : The City of Nawabs
The capital city of Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow, with its rich and diverse heritage and culture on one hand, is also the administrative headquarter of the eponymous district and division. Lucknow stands about 123 m above sea level, and sits on the northwestern shore of Gomti River.
But apart from the political significance or the geographic importance, Lucknow is mostly known for the historical background - being the capital of the Awadh region, controlled by the Delhi Sultanate from 1200's and later the Mughal empire, then transferred to the Nawabs of Awadh. In 1856, the East India Company abolished local rule and took complete control of the city along with the rest of Awadh and, in 1857, after the great mutiny, took it under the British rule. Therefore, Uttar Pradesh government has taken initiative to flaunt the culture and flamboyant heritage of Lucknow and turn it into a tourist spot along with two other important cities, also, mostly known as their historical structures, Agra and Varanasi.
But history apart, we would focus on a modern man’s interest in Lucknow from the tourism perspective. Firstly, for the accomodation and food, Hazratganj is the safest and in my opinion the best place to find such essentialities, but of course it’s a costly area. Still, I would recommend people to stay there if you are staying for a short duration.
Moving out of Hazratganj, the number of places to visit is many, yet, on an average they take small amount of time for each, so it would be a wise decision if you would take a U.P tourism department vehicle.
Following are the exciting places that you can visit-
The trip includes the Shah Najaf Imambara – (Imambara is a place for “Majlis” or mourning congregations of Imam Hussain and martyrs of Karbala) – constructed by Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider, the last nawab wazir and the first king of the state of Awadh. The mausoleum of the aforementioned constructor and his three wives Sarfaraz Mahal, Mubarak Mahal and Mumtaz Mahal are also buried there.
The Residency is ruins of a group of buildings in a common precinct, located at the centre of Lucknow, in the vicinity of Shaheed Smarak, Tehri Kothi and the High Court Building. Constructed during the reign of Nawab Saadat Ali Khan, this place served as the residence of the British Resident General, a representative of the Empire in the court of the Nawab. It was converted to ruins due to the attacks it was subjected to during the siege of Lucknow, a part of the rebellion of 1857.
The Bara Imambara, next in the trip, built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula is a place famous not only for it’s overwhelming architecture and the Asfi Mosque, but more importantly for the “bhulbhulaiya” or the great ‘Labyrinth’.
It’s a suggestion from my side to the readers not dare to enter it alone, without a guide, if for the first time. The rest, internal structural design or the materials inside is of course same as other Imambaras, one thing worth noticing is how the openings in the walls of the labyrinth enabled persons to see all of the interior area and thus monitor the activities without themselves being seen. A myth says that there are 1024 ways to reach the terrace and only two to come back to the first or last gate. Another legend has it that a blocked tunnel passageway leads to a place close to Gomti river, through a mile-long underground pathway. There are other passages too, rumoured to lead to Faizabad, Allahabad, Agra, and (maybe an exaggeration) to Delhi. The tunnels were sealed after people were reported to have gone missing while exploring these tunnels, as well as other misuses.
The Chota Imambara and Rumi Darwaza come next on the list. The Chota Imambara is situated near the Bara Imambara and on the connecting road, the fascinating gateway is known as Rumi Darwaza (was built under the patronage of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1784). The chandeliers used to decorate the this building were brought from Belgium. Inside the building, there is the crown of Muhammad Ali Shah and ceremonial ‘tazia’s. It has a gilded dome and several turrets and minarets. There are two replicas of the Taj Mahal which were built as the tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah's daughter and her husband. The walls are decorated with Arabic calligraphy. Water supply for the fountains and the water bodies inside the imambara came directly from the Gomti River.
The Clock Tower was constructed in 1881 by Hussainabad Trust to mark the arrival of Sir George Couper, the first lieutenant governor of United Province of Avadh. It was built at a cost of Rs. 1.75 lakhs. It is located adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza. It was built as a replica to the Big Ben clock tower of London. Designed by Richard Roskell Bayne, at 67 metres (220 ft) in height, It is adjudged as the tallest among all the clock towers in India and it reflects Victorian and Gothic style structural designs. Gunmetal is used for building the clock parts. Its gigantic pendulum has a length of 14 feet, and the dial of the clock is designed in the shape of a 12- fully gold flower and bells around it.
Two other most exciting places to visit are the Dilkusha Kothi and Ambedkar Memorial Park.
Dilkusha Kothi is the remains of an eighteenth-century house built in the English baroque style in the quiet Dilkusha area. Today there are only a few towers and external walls as a monument, though the extensive gardens remain. The house was constructed around 1800 by the British resident Major Gore Ouseley a friend of the ruler of Awadh, Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. It was initially intended as a hunting lodge for the Nawabs although later used as a summer resort too. Changes were made to its design by Nawab Nasir-ud-Din Haider. The building had patterned walls and unusually no inner courtyard as was traditional in Indian architecture.
Ambedkar Memorial Park, The park, besides B.R. Ambedkar, “The Father of Indian Constitution” also honours the lives of Jyotirao Phule, Narayana Guru, Birsa Munda, Shahuji Maharaj, Kanshi Ram and all those who've devoted their life for humanity, equality and social justice. The memorial was constructed by Mayawati, the former Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh.
And thus ends our virtual trip of the place of Nawabs. If I might have encouraged enthusiastic readers to visit Lucknow through this personal experience, then that would be my prize utmost. Finally, the only thing I can say is that if you visit and like Lucknow, when you depart, for one final time the Wazid Ali Khan inside you would not fail to sing…
“Jab chhor chale Lakhnow nagari
Kahe haal ke hum par kya guzri
Jab chhor chale Lakhnow nagari…”
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